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Timestamps are as accurate as they can be but may be slightly off. We encourage you to listen to the full context.
In this special 20th anniversary episode of Design Matters, Debbie Millman revisits standout moments from past conversations with five acclaimed photographers: Catherine Opie, Albert Watson, Pete Souza, Lynn Goldsmith, and Mary Ellen Matthews. (03:06) Each excerpt explores how these photographers approach their craft, capture truth, and use the camera to tell the stories that define us.
Catherine Opie is a renowned photographer whose portraits of queer communities in Los Angeles and San Francisco brought her fame and recognition in the 1990s. She contributed photographs to lesbian magazines like On Our Backs and was deeply embedded in Valencia Street's lesbian community in San Francisco, documenting experiences that challenged traditional portraiture conventions.
Albert Watson is a fashion, celebrity, and art photographer who has been prominent since the 1970s. Despite being born without vision in his right eye, he has created some of the most iconic photographs of our time, including the most famous photograph of Steve Jobs, and has photographed hundreds of artists, celebrities, royalty, and cultural leaders.
Pete Souza served as the chief official White House photographer during the Obama administration and previously worked as a photographer during the Reagan years. He also worked as one of the first photographers to cover the war in Afghanistan for the Chicago Tribune, traversing dangerous terrain to document conflict zones.
Mary Ellen Matthews is the chief photographer for Saturday Night Live, best known for creating hundreds of celebrity portraits and the iconic bumper images seen before and after commercial breaks. She joined SNL as Edie Baskin's assistant in 1993 and worked her way up through the music industry and film production.
Lynn Goldsmith is a legendary photographer who captured many iconic photos of the music scene in the 1980s. She has the unique distinction of being one of the only people interviewed by Debbie who witnessed the Beatles' historic first live US television appearance on The Ed Sullivan Show in 1964.
Catherine Opie's work demonstrates the power of photographing from within your own community rather than as an outside observer. (10:02) Opie vowed never to be a voyeur within her own community and instead created intimate portraits that challenged traditional documentary approaches. Her work with the leather and BDSM communities provided healing from childhood trauma while creating authentic representations. This approach teaches us that the most powerful photography often comes from genuine connection and lived experience rather than external observation.
Albert Watson emphasizes the critical importance of mastering technical photography skills until they become muscle memory. (20:51) He compares it to learning to drive - overwhelming at first with all the gauges and gears, but once mastered, you can focus entirely on your destination. Watson admits the technical side was painful for him initially, but he understood it was necessary. It took him 10-14 years to become truly fluent and comfortable with his technical abilities. This mastery allowed him to execute creative visions without being hindered by technical limitations.
Pete Souza's approach to presidential photography focused on capturing genuine, unguarded moments rather than formal portraits. (31:57) He describes photographing Barack Obama eating a sandwich with food in his mouth while his daughters were around, creating intimate pictures despite knowing Obama for only three hours. Souza recognized that these authentic moments would become more valuable historically than staged photographs. His philosophy teaches us that the most powerful images often come from patience, trust-building, and being ready to capture spontaneous human moments.
Mary Ellen Matthews' career trajectory shows how being open to unexpected opportunities can lead to extraordinary outcomes. (40:28) While job hunting at record labels, she encountered Bill Murray on a film set by chance. When he asked her to take a photo and learned she was job seeking, he immediately offered her work as a production assistant. This random encounter, combined with her openness and prepared mindset (she had her resume ready), launched her into film work and eventually to Saturday Night Live. The lesson is to always be prepared and remain open to opportunities that may seem unrelated to your ultimate goals.
Lynn Goldsmith's encounter with the Beatles at age 14 illustrates the power of staying true to your authentic preferences despite outside pressure. (50:35) Despite being given an incredible opportunity to photograph the Beatles, she remained loyal to her preference for rhythm and blues and the Rolling Stones, even feeling that looking at the Beatles would be a "betrayal." When John Lennon touched her arm, she pulled away because she "thought she had the cooties." This authentic reaction, while seemingly naive, resulted in her first published photograph and demonstrated the importance of maintaining your authentic voice even in extraordinary circumstances.